"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond "Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max If at first you don't succeed -Don't take up Skydiving! - BLT Offroad Avalanche
A long time ago , in a forum a long way away....[insert StarWars theme]
It was suggested that I post this here as inspiration or as ideas for those who might be considering an electric fan conversion. I will preface this with a few words of wisdom.
The stock mechanically driven fan is really pretty good. Clutch fans limit the drag on the engine and nothing pulls air like the horsepower available directly from the engine. There is no electric fan that will pull as much CFM. If you are having heating problems, electric is probably not the answer.
So why go electric? It can have some advantages. At low speeds in hot weather it is not dependent upon engine RPM to move air. Crawling the desert the e-fans may keep you cooler. Air Conditioning performance can work better too. When the engine is hot they can run for a brief period after shut down to help reduce heat soak and the boil over that can occur. On a deep water crossing the fans can be canceled to prevent radiator damage. During cold weather the engine may have a faster warm up time and no drag from the fans. That can help performance and mileage.
"This all sounds great! Sign me up!" NOT SO FAST...
Every mod has its down side and the way things usually work is that one mod begets another. This is like a snow ball running down hill. Sometimes the ball gets very big , and sometimes it crashes at the bottom of the hill.
What are the negatives? The fans are electrical motors. Those can fail. Having two helps. Both failing at the same time is unlikely. E-fans is not simple. To work relays wires and fuses must all function. Any one part fails and you are down. They do move less air than a mechanical fan. At highways speeds the fan is rarely needed to move the heated air from the radiator. At low speeds they exceed performance. It is that time when you are pulling really hard at altitude where they may not quite meet the task at hand. The fan load is not eliminated when the fans are running. The mechanical fan puts the load on the engine through the water pump pulley. The electric fans deliver the load through the alternator pulley. Stock alternators are usually sized very close to the stock vehicles needs. If you make any additions to the electrical load, you must increase the ability to supply this load. That means you need a bigger alternator.
Ok, now that we have all that stuff out of the way...here is what I did for my last truck- LT1/LS1 Fan conversion
I found these LS1 Camaro fans and an extra upper shroud at the salvage yard.
The plan was to keep the wiring simple. Activated by the thermosat switch, air conditioning, or a manual switch in the cab.
Left fan (Drivers side) Light blue = Positive , Gray = Negative Right Fan (Pass. side) White = Positive , Black = Negative
For the AC I tapped the light blue AC request wire , from the high pressure switch on the back of the compressor. This will eliminate the fans cycling with the clutch. Instead they will be on whenever the AC is requested. This control starts the fans at 60% power to reduce the load on the alternator, then if the temperature rises it gradually increases to 100% over the next 10 degrees.
These fans run together draw 57 amps for a split second on start-up, then continuously draw 13.6 amps while running at 100%. During AC operation and running at 60% they only draw 10.6 amps.
The fans fit very nicely horizontally, but the shroud was a little tall. I cut the fans shroud down to the top of the upper most fan.
The upper fan shroud was cut straight across the top, retaining the radiator mounts and just behind the raised section for the stock fan.
I used 1/8"x 1 1/2" aluminum angle to join the two pieces. Attached with 3/16" aluminum pop rivets, backing washers, and finished with press-in caps. It is now a one piece direct bolt-in.
The stock upper shroud was cut straight across just in front of the radiator mounts. The lower lip had to be trimmed 1/4" to move the fans closer to the core and the tabs on the sides were trimmed for width also. Slots were cut on the inside of the lower lip for inserting 1/8"x 1"x 2 1/4" aluminum tabs, that are attached with 3/16 aluminum poprivets. These re-use the stock lower shroud mounting.
Total investment: $170 - Time to complete aprox.: 6 hours.
Persson's Offroad Systems makes a system that works very similar to what we did.
Here is a good example of the articulation that you can get:
Not an option for this truck. The sway bar rides between the upper a-arm and the steering tie-rod. Even if you disconnect the link, you have no way to stow the bar.
During all the planning for the above disconnect, several other options were discussed. The 2005 Dodge Electronic sway bar disconnect is pretty cool. we came to the same conclusion that it was far too expensive to be useful for most. An aftermarket company made one for the center of the bar on a Jeep. The front steering shield would make that very inconvenient for us. That said a center disconnect is likely to be the only choice, other than removal of the bar. That is not an option in my opinion.
Here is my idea from our thread March 2006:
...Cut the bar in half. Two keys much like the torsion bar "porkchops" are cut. One fits tightly over the bar and has a hole in the other end. This is slipped over one bar and back a couple inches to be welded in place. The next key slips over a piece of pipe twice the length that the first key is from the end of the opposing bar and is welded to one end of the pipe. This pipe is slipped over the bar and the plates mate. A groove in the bar keeps the bars from separating and the pipe uses a set screw to keep the bars together while disconnected. The other end of the pipe is then welded to the bar. A grease zerk is tapped into the pipe for lubrication. To understand how these will function, place your hands together palm to palm. hold your arms straight and parallel. Rotate you arms independently. This is what it would do unlatched. Lock your fingers and the bar rotates as one. Now, this all needs to be easy to operate, so I want an electronic latch pin. A simple solenoid can be attached to one plate with a large diameter hardened pin. Throw power to it and the pin recedes unlocking the plates for the bar to disconnect. kill the power and it latches. The plates would be wide enough to prevent the latch pin from being engaged in the out position, and spring loaded so that it will automatically engage when the bar aligns. You would have to anticipate the situation needing the bar disconnected since I doubt it would easily disconnect under load.
Pin size, plate and pipe thickness as well as key length can be adjusted for strength and clearances. It would have to be positioned and clocked in a position that has enough clearance.
anyone know what kinda grille is in that black truck don posted? i've been thinking about doing the same kinda set up with the lights like that but it wouldn't work with a stock grille... this looks like it would work well and as a bonus those "rivits" look like they match the ones on my wheels http://www.ebay.com/...e-/170620041955
Do some research before you spend the $$ I suspect that the ebay grille you linked attaches to the stock grille as a cover. It does not replace the factory grille , as it does not have its own mounting points to the OEM framework. The grille in the above picture appears to be custom? Or a complete grille replacement unit? Either way it is not just a zip-tied cover. You could fab up a screen grille very inexpensively. Aluminum or stainless screen is not all that expensive.
I was able to find a bit of info on the CS144, but not the CS244. Thoughts on the difference?
I am fairly sure that you mean AD244, not CS244? I have never heard of the CS244.
This is a CS144:
This is the AD244:
The CS144 is old school. External fan , internal diodes and regulator. It is fairly strong and was the workhorse for the '70s and '80s trucks. It did have a real heating problem when pushed though. Prone to front bearing failures when heated. I have my workhorse test CS144 unit on the shelf still if someone wants to buy it. It is hopped up and will bench well past 230 amps cold.
The AD244 took over and blew it away. Internal fans, a stronger case with better ventilation. The diodes and regulator moved out for better cooling. This uses a very similar regulator that works just fine with older systems. It benches over 200 amps cold and maintains 100amps at idle speeds. No need for a smaller pulley to run it faster as was required for the CS144.
The AD244 uses a four terminal regulator. It was replaced by the DR44G which looks similar, but uses a two wire regulator. These can still be picked up used for very reasonable prices. Best $50 I ever spent. Buying new is an option , but as the thread I linked learns, that may not be the best choice. There are too many cheap copies out there. A genuine AC Delco case is worth lots. A used alternator or good original case rebuild is the best choice. That said, adding the "HO" before a NAPA part number can get you the good stuff , if it is available and at a very reasonable price.
How long did you have yours? Was it set-up right? Fluid changed regularly? What did you have it in, vehicle and rearend?
My 1986 Cherolet S-10 sport 4x4 It was set up right and maintained above and beyond normal schedules. The springs were replaced once due to one that failed. You must learn to work with it. You need to power through or coast a corner. Hit it wrong and you can get a good jerk when it snaps over in a corner. I though I broke something the first time. I lerned how to work with it. My first disapointment was finding one of the tiny springs broken during a service inspection. Powertrax was great and sent me a new set quickly. My second straw was when the new clutch was worn apart. Enough that it dumped a dampening spring and locked up the clutch. That was it for me. Out it went. Sold it to someone with full disclosure on my experiences. Automatic transmissions may tend to hide some of the issues.
Like I said, offroad they are great, For a street driven rig...not so much. I will spend the extra and get a real locker. My lesson is learned.
I have installed G80 Eaton GovLoc differentials in at least half a dozen rigs. No failures. Much better than the open carriers with the soft side gears. I think the key is using the correct fluid. The clutch disks in the G80 are sensitive to fluids that do not meet the GL-4 specification. Those exceeding this standard can contain additives detremental to the clutch linings. Too many switch to synthetics, or worse yet add friction modifiers. Some of the late model G80 differentials now use different clutch lining and are compatible with the synthetic lubricants additive package.
Keep in mind that I am not a rockcrawler. Those rigs need a selectable locker. Mine is a higher speed desert terrain. That in itself may be a valid difference.