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TIPS, HINTS & KINKS

tips hints kinks

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#1 OFFLINE   AA1PR

 
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Posted 28 March 2014 - 11:59 AM

how about a thread where we share information that saves time & energy that possibly others might not have knowledge of

 

we all know there are certain ways to do this or that, but often there is a faster or easier way

 

most times its something we have never experienced, hence knowledge is gained from experience

 

we will all learn & gain together here

 

safety above all else when submitting info here please

 

use all above information as such

 

 

I'll start off with leaking alumunim rims, anyone with these rims has most likely experienced this

 

this is assuming the bead & tire are clean & void of defects

 

break the tire down just enough to loosen the bead from the rim

 

 place some grease (or black silicone rubber works too) between the rim bead area & the tire bead,

 

often aluminum is porous & that causes the leak, if not grease some black rubber sealant will work too

 

reseat the tire onto the rim, wipe off the excess & you're good to go

 

 


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#2 OFFLINE   97greenhorn

 
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Posted 15 January 2015 - 10:43 AM

I like this idea and if I get some used rims from the junk yard, knowing this will come in handy.

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#3 OFFLINE   AA1PR

 
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Posted 15 January 2015 - 11:24 AM

wd40 instead of anti splatter spray as someone here suggested

 

anyone else got anything ?


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2004 GMC Yukon, 4X4 SLT, 5.3L Vortec, ~ Yukon Build Thread
Trail Master 2.5" leveling keys, SkyJacker  Hydro 7000's & MOOG 81069 rear coils with 1.5" spacers,
Hella 700FF's,  Running on 33's BFG TA KO & XRC 12K Comp Winch

1966 Stevens M416 trailer too ~ M416 Build thread

"Now she is gone I got my Yukon"   

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#4 OFFLINE   HARDTRAILZ

 
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Posted 15 January 2015 - 11:35 AM

Wrap a ratchet strap around the tread of the tire to help in reseating the bead when you have one slip off out on the trail. 


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#5 OFFLINE   02TahoeMd

 
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Posted 15 January 2015 - 03:51 PM

When changing a serpentine belt I have found it to be a job that can require 3 or 5 hands as you try to keep the darn thing seated across all the pulleys. I found a trick that makes it MUCH easier - seat it on the bottom pulley first, and secure it with some painter's tape. Then go back up top and finish fishing the belt to where it belongs. After done, remove the  tape. Pic below for reference. 

 

5af15ae0-b12a-429b-8eba-b4a5ca06e684_zps


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#6 OFFLINE   DirtRidinZ71

 
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Posted 16 January 2015 - 11:45 AM

For an easy way to remove a carrier out of a differential is to bunch up a rag and put stuff it on top of the ring gear, then spin the carrier using the ring gear bolts. The rag will get sucked in behind the ring gear and pop out the carrier, no need for prying!

IMAG1405_zps12a0bf2f.jpg
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#7 OFFLINE   topshelfburban

 
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Posted 16 January 2015 - 12:36 PM

When installing a flat tappet cam, use moly-based assembly lube, even if the cam is shipped with another product (like seen below).  This is especially important if the cam is going to be installed knowing the engine will sit for a while before the initial priming and break in period.  There is a lot of voodoo surrounding flat tappet cams, oils, oil additives, dedicated engine break-in/run-in sessions, EPA regulations, etc.  It seems that everyone has an opinion and they sometimes are conveyed as facts.  I wanted to sort through the BS so I performed this "test" a few years back.  I took the old cam from the 350 in my Chevelle, cleaned it thoroughly with lacquer thinner, and used it as a test piece to see what I'd find out from applying a variety of "cam lubes" to a few of the lobes with similar pitch or opening/closing events. 

 

Below are three products marketed for this application, slathered on three cam lobes:

 

Left: Assembly/Fastener Moly-based Lube, supplied by Howards Cams with my new cam (Also available from numerous other suppliers such as ARP Ultra-Torque Fastener Assembly Lube #100-9909)
Middle: Cam Lube, Moly Based, Edelbrock #9260
Right: Cam Lube, Comp Cams #103 

 

As you can see, the thin reddish lube from Comp was already dripping off the cam, within 5 minutes of being applied.

 

1270086880.jpg

 

The next pic was taken 12 hours later.

 

1270086882.jpg

 

The next pic was taken 6 hours after the last (18 hours after application)

 

1270086884.jpg

 

This one was at 24 hours after application...

 

1270086885.jpg

 

By the time 2 days had passed, there was absolutely nothing left on the lobe with the red stuff poured onto it.  The other two lobes looked like this...

 

1270316018.jpg

 

This was almost 6 months after application...

 

PIC_0202.jpg

 

This a almost year after application...

 

1297554085.jpg

 

 

 

What's the bottom line?  Many, many people (shadetree guys and profesional engine builders alike) have wiped a cam lobe or lobes during or shortly after break-in using the red stuff.  This could be hours, days, or months after applying the lube.  If installing a flat tappet cam, use moly based lube.  The pink Edelbrock stuff is good, but the gray stuff is the best. 

 

 

 

 

 


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#8 OFFLINE   AA1PR

 
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Posted 01 March 2015 - 04:06 PM

& an old welding rod tube becomes a nice container to store zip ties in

2015-03-01%2013.41.33.jpg


___________________________________________________________

                           

 

2004 GMC Yukon, 4X4 SLT, 5.3L Vortec, ~ Yukon Build Thread
Trail Master 2.5" leveling keys, SkyJacker  Hydro 7000's & MOOG 81069 rear coils with 1.5" spacers,
Hella 700FF's,  Running on 33's BFG TA KO & XRC 12K Comp Winch

1966 Stevens M416 trailer too ~ M416 Build thread

"Now she is gone I got my Yukon"   

ExpeditionNorth.com






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