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skid plating a GMT400

skid plating gmt400

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#1 OFFLINE   891Ton

 
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Posted 05 October 2013 - 08:47 PM

hey guys, not a ton of pics here but you get the idea. After smashing my tcase crossmember so hard it pushed my tcase into my floor, I decided it was time for skid plating. I replaced the crossmember, then I build a skid using .25" steel plate. It measured about 44"x33" on my 89 RCSB. I used some 1/2" x 1/8" rectangle box as a spacer between the frame rail and skid. This also gave me about 3/4" drop of the skid below the frame rails which was good because it put a little more distance between the skid and my Tcase. That helped because the tcase is only about an inch higher than the frame rails. The GMT 400 is awesome in that respect with the np241's because you can go to a completely flat belly. Now high centering on trail obstacles is just fun and not destructive. I backed the plate with 3/16" angle  in the areas around the Tcase. I would have liked to run an "X" across the whole plate but couldn't because of the tcase. So I put them in the areas around it and they should prevent bending for the most part. I really don't mind some minor bending. 

 

I also used carriage bolts rather than hex head bolts so that they can get bashed as well and there is no need to worry about getting a wrench on them.  I welded them to the plate and there is a nut on the inside of the frame rail which can be taken off easily by reaching in and unscrewing it. They are 1/2" grade 8 bolts. So overall, it was pretty simple. a big square, cut a notch for the driveshaft, and the corners off the rear, then add the spacers so the impact doesn't hit directly on the frame rails. the rectangle box will also crush before the frame rail will bend if the impact is that hard. this also is going to help keep my frame straight as it acts as another crossmember. So here is a few pics.

 

IMG_20130927_205757_276_zpsce3fcd20.jpg

 

IMG_20130927_212219_144_zpsd4f0e398.jpg

 

IMG_20130930_154017_678_zpsfcd05e5d.jpg

you can see in this pic above where I slammed it on some rocks that day and the carriage bolts got hit. the reason to use carriage bolts right there. any hex head bolt would be destroyed and just act as an anchor when sliding over stuff.

 

IMG_20130930_153954_916_zpsc0127bec.jpg


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#2 OFFLINE   Motomech

 
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Posted 05 October 2013 - 09:07 PM

That came out real nice!



#3 OFFLINE   DonYukon

 
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Posted 06 October 2013 - 02:35 AM

That came out real nice!

x2 

that is a good idea , Overkill? No such thing for wheeling , Great job man Just when I thought you were done with this thing 


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#4 OFFLINE   891Ton

 
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Posted 06 October 2013 - 07:30 AM

We beat on the trucks pretty hard. There is no overdoing it with rock armor. Those sliders were the #1 piece of armor I could've made. I have slammed them and repeatedly smashed them so hard I could swear they were being destroyed. Yet so far not even a dent in them. Very pleased I went with .25" box rather than some tube design. Its amazing what abuse they take. I did bend my bumper last weekend though dropping off a huge rock directly onto my roller fairlead. The fairlead couldn't pull out of the .25" plate front so it bend in the only place I didn't weld the seam and broke my winch around the mounting holes. That sucks but nice to see the superwinch break before my fab job. Not sure how I'm gonna fix the winch yet.
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#5 OFFLINE   Chevrolado

 
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Posted 07 October 2013 - 03:58 PM

Not sure how I missed this before.. man! Great build on that thing. It looks bulletproof! haha. :D Nice work.

Glad to hear its holding up to some serious beating.. Testament to great quality work.


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#6 OFFLINE   891Ton

 
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Posted 07 October 2013 - 05:56 PM

With the amount of .25" steel I have on this truck it really is bulletproof in a lot of places lol. Never thought about it like that. Hey I like that, maybe I'll change the name from "White Trash" to "bulletproof"
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#7 OFFLINE   Chevrolado

 
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Posted 07 October 2013 - 06:01 PM

With the amount of .25" steel I have on this truck it really is bulletproof in a lot of places lol. Never thought about it like that. Hey I like that, maybe I'll change the name from "White Trash" to "bulletproof"

 

Or play on words/activities... "Boulder-Proof" :lol: :P


Edited by Chevrolado, 07 October 2013 - 06:01 PM.

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#8 OFFLINE   DMANbluesfreak

 
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Posted 22 November 2013 - 11:22 AM

This looks good.  I really like the reinforcement using angle iron.  A relatively inexpensive way to do it.  I need to find a lead on a nice piece of 1/4" plate to do this with.  No way I'm paying market value for one... Yikes.



#9 OFFLINE   ddolliver

 
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Posted 28 March 2014 - 04:37 PM

came out nice bud. nice rig you got there.


Edited by ddolliver, 31 May 2014 - 08:23 PM.


#10 OFFLINE   Hedge

 
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Posted 29 March 2014 - 07:12 AM

Just like 891, I took a similar approach with angle iron on my front differential skid plate.  The original I had from RCX literally started to form around the differential.  It was beat up so badly after a few wheeling trips that I could not longer mount it in the original holes.  With a hammer and anvil, I pounded it out and added quit a of reinforcement to it with the new steel.

 

The flat strips of steel are where the differential housing sits...the angle iron would have been sitting up against the housing in that area.  I then used a few layers of primer followed up by bed liner both inside and outside.

 

 

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Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: skid, plating, gmt400

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