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Installing Hydraulic Ram Assist Steering on a SAS


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#1 OFFLINE   891Ton

 
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Posted 07 June 2013 - 02:20 PM

First off this mod is highly featured in Pirate and other forums but what I learned by looking at 100 threads was that no one really does a detailed job and I was left with a trillion questions. So here goes and I will try to update as I progress.


As many of you know you can buy a PSC kit and have everything from soup to nuts for about $1000. But #### that Im going to show you how to do it for about $180. The things you will need are,


1) A good well working stock 4wd or 2wd steering box.

2) A good healthy power steering pump

3) One hydraulic Ram

4) Two hydro lines

5) a bunch of NPT and JIC fittings

6) tabs to mount the ram to axle tube and tie rod

7) a Power steering cooler

8) new end plug with NPT fitting

9) tapped top cap with NPT fitting


(8&9 can be bypassed if you want to tap your box like all the Jeep guys do) But they probably wouldnt if they could get the caps like we can for the JK, XJ, and early YJ/CJ


 

 


 

Basically there are two ways to do this. Tap your box, which requires taking the steering box off your truck, drilling and tapping the side of the case where there are fluid ports, and placing fittings in there. Then a complete teardown of the box, to clean all the metal shaving out of it. Or the second way which is what I chose, tap your top cap of your steering box, and buy a new end plug with a NPT fitting already bult into it.This way you can leave the steering box in the truck, take the end plug and top cap off to modify them, put them back on and your done. ALso doing it like this you can re use the end plug and top cap should you ever grenade a box. You dont need to tap another box, just switch caps :)

 

Here is what I got, I got everything from Surpluss Center.com other than my end plug, and my o-ring/retaining ring. Also the steel brackets in the pic I fabbed up myself.  The ram is an 8" stroke, by 1.5" bore. Basically the bigger the bore the slower the ram. 1.5 seems pretty good for 40" tires. 44" and up Id go to the 2".


 


 

The first thing I did was hook up my cooler. Because of the intense heat the ram builds up you need to run one. Its a must. Run it from the return line on your pump. I used a simple tube and fin tranny cooler from summit I got for $35 bucks.


 

Also when I did this I replaced my return line on my box. I turned it oposite the way its supposed to be so that it ran towards my cooler instead of my pump.  It worked out great this way.

 

The next thing I did was tap my top cap. This thing is very think and will be fine for tapping. Use a tap for a .25" NPT fitting. You need to drill the hole with a 7/16 drill bit, then use a .25" tap for NPT (its big).  You can re use the gasket under the top cap. Be careful not to mess it up.  When you remove this cap, put an allen wrench on the adjustment nut and unscrew the nut. Then screw off the top cap keeping the allen wrench there stationary so you dont throw off your stock adjustment. The top cap screws off that nut like a big nut. then make the hole in the cap. This is where the hole goes. (its the bottom one)



get it right in this area



 

Then tap




 

Next add your fitting. I used a 90* because I need it to turn that way, which most of you will too if its a chevy/gmc truck


 

Your done, put it on the truck



 

next comes the fun part of taking off your end plug. heehee. Have fun getting the retaining ring off. Its a b*tch. You need to push something like an awl through the top of the box case.  There is a hole made there for you just for this purpose. You un-seat the retaining ring with an awl or something, then you can grab it with pliers and dont let go. Work it out with a screwdriver, or pry bar. you have to work these things hard, they dont like to come out. Then when you finally get it out, to remove the end plug, start the truck, and turn the steering wheel to the left. Just slight turning will pop that thing right off. Remember the fluid will come pouring out, so be ready. I hung a 5 gallon bucket off the pointed part of the casting right on top of the box. when it popped off all the fluid poured right into it. get creative. But dont forget as soon as you hear it pop off turn the truck off IMMEDIATELY so you dont run your pump dry. I tried it first with the truck off and it didnt come out. I have removed these plugs with a dry box out of the truck and they are near impossible to get out. if you use my method that thing will bust out in seconds. Here is what it looks like after it comes out.


 

clean it up a little and put your new end plug with its tapped fitting in. I got this from JKW offroad for $40. It fit great. Here is a huge help. It is near impossible to find a new retaining ring and O ring. I looked high and low. I finally found a rebuild kit from autozone that they had to special order. the pic below shows the kit and its part number on the bag. get it before you start this mod!


 


 

Here is the new end plug installed and the retaining ring installed. The O ring goes behind it. You will see it on your old end plug.


 

When installing make note to install the retaining ring so that it can be pushed out by an awl at a later date. in this pic notice I put it in so the gap is NOT where the hole is. Dont screw that up or it will NEVER come out. you want it close to the hole so it pushes down, but not too close.

 

 

The next step here is to hook up your lines. Make your life a whole lot easier and buy the swivel fittings so that you dont have to try and twist your lines. Just screw them in.



 

here is the way I mounted my ram with high steer.





 

here is the end result. finished.


 

This whole mod cost me less than $200 and now I can turn my wheel with one finger with 40" boggers. Best mod I haave ever done to my truck other than a SAS. No need for a steering stabilizer anymore, no need for an XJ steering shaft. It turns like a sports car.the only other thing that you really need to know about this mod is after you get it all hooked up, it needs to be bled properly. To do this use these steps.


1) Jack up the front end to get both tires off the ground. mount the ram to its fixed point, but do not hook it up to the tie rod. leave it hanging there. ( you will see why in a few steps)


2) with the truck off, go lock to lock with the steering wheel while continually checking the pump. Fill it as it sucks the fluid in


3) When your pump levels off and you are not getting any more bubbles comming out its time to start the truck.


4) Start it for a few seconds and turn it off, it will suck in all the fluid. Refil the pump resivoir and do again.


5) You may need to do this a few times, because when you start it it will suck in the fluid very fast and you will hear your pump whine. you need to turn the motor off before the pump sucks in air and you ruin your pump. Once it seems like your pump has taken enough fluid and its not sucking in a lot anymore, go lock to lock (with truck still off) until it stops bubbling.


6) At this point give the truck a few minutes for the fluid to settle and the air to work its way out. Then turn your wheels to lock one way and fire it up. It will again suck in fluid and you may need to do step 4 again. if it doesnt suck it all in and the pump in not emptying, go lock to lock until you notice the pump emptying. Turn engine off, and refill. You will need to do this until the ram starts moving. Once it does, you will know if you put your lines on right. If they are put on backwards the ram will extract, then retract and keep going back and forth. If this happens, switch your lines, (at the ram) and do the bleeding procedure again. I of course had to do this. once i reversed the lines the ram functioned properly on the steering wheel.


7) Once you know the system is bled pretty good and your ram lines are hooked up right, you are ready to tack on your ram to the tie rod.  make sure the wheels are straight, and pull the ram out (by hand) so its in the middle of its stroke. With the ram in the middle of its stroke and the wheels perfectly straight, now you can tack on your ram to the tie rod where it lays. tack it on, and then fire up the truck, and cycle the steering to make sure it is set properly. if it is, weld everything up.


8) your welded up, and ram working properly, so get in the truck, and with the truck on, go lock to lock, MANY times, to work the last little bits of air out of the system and get the ram working proplerly. It will get easier and easier until you can turn the wheel with one finger. when this is happening check your pump, fill if needed, make sure everything is tight and go wheel.

 

Problems with bleeding can be because, you have a bad seal in the ram (dont buy a used one) , you have bad seals at the hoses, or your tapped fittings, or your pump is not the highest component in your system. So be sure to mount the cooler below it (hight wise). Hope this helps, now get er done.

 

 


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#2 OFFLINE   Hedge

 
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Posted 07 June 2013 - 02:26 PM

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This topic has been moved from "ModificationBuild Threads" to "ModificationHow-To Articles".

#3 OFFLINE   DMANbluesfreak

 
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Posted 22 November 2013 - 12:29 PM

I'm planning on doing this this winter since the truck is stored away for a while.  Couple questions.

 

1) Where'd you get the already tapped end plug?

 

2) I've read people need to run an auxiliary reservoir since the stock reservoir may not have enough fluid for the entire system.  Are they doing this simply because of heat?  Did you end up running one?

 

3) Would it make more sense to run it from the axle to one of the knuckles to limit the amount of stress on the tie rod (and more importantly) the tie rod ends?  I figure this is minimal in the grand scheme of things, but it never hurts to ask.

 

 

Thanks!  And awesome write-up.  I was about to pull the trigger on a PSC setup since I wasn't able to find any clear instructions on how to piece together your own.  So glad I didnt.


Edited by DMANbluesfreak, 22 November 2013 - 03:07 PM.


#4 OFFLINE   jepercreper

 
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Posted 22 November 2013 - 02:39 PM

I like, this definitely seems easier than the tap and clean way, thanks


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#5 OFFLINE   AA1PR

 
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Posted 22 November 2013 - 08:43 PM

Nice writeup, thanks !


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#6 OFFLINE   891Ton

 
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Posted 22 November 2013 - 11:42 PM



I'm planning on doing this this winter since the truck is stored away for a while.  Couple questions.

 

1) Where'd you get the already tapped end plug?

 

2) I've read people need to run an auxiliary reservoir since the stock reservoir may not have enough fluid for the entire system.  Are they doing this simply because of heat?  Did you end up running one?

 

3) Would it make more sense to run it from the axle to one of the knuckles to limit the amount of stress on the tie rod (and more importantly) the tie rod ends?  I figure this is minimal in the grand scheme of things, but it never hurts to ask.

 

 

Thanks!  And awesome write-up.  I was about to pull the trigger on a PSC setup since I wasn't able to find any clear instructions on how to piece together your own.  So glad I didnt.

DMan.. Heres the scoop after trail testing this thing for a while.

 

First off I got the tapped end plug from JKWoffroad. Here is the link http://jkwoffroad.co...oadproducts.php

 

Second , yes that's right. The stock reservoir wasn't enough. I had to change a couple things. Under heavy wheeling, the fluid started getting so hot it was filling the reservoir and spilling out the top of the cap. I had fluid everywhere and I also lost a lot of steering control once it started to cavitate the steering got real tight and I couldn't turn as well as when it was cool.  I had to pull over on the trail and let it cool. So to fix this I did two things.

 

1. Got a bigger cooler. The replaced the cooler with a Ford Crown Victoria tranny cooler which is 12"x8".  Its roughly twice the size as the first one I got. I didn't think this thing was going to get so hot. But the new cooler works great. It has three loops of tubes that stick out one side of the cooler and two stick out the other. The first cooler I had only had two out one side and one out the other. (look at the photo) and you will see the difference.

 

2. I added some extra capacity to the reservoir. And as easy as pie heres how I did it.

 

IMG_20131122_232919_814_zps1369e911.jpg

 

Get a piece of radiator hose, and a couple hose clamps. Then go to a junk yard and cut off an oil fill neck from any motor that it resembles the size of your radiator hose. Stick the hose on your reservoir, then put the oil fill neck in the other end of the tube, and hose clamp everything together. Remember to take the cap for the oil fill neck. Mine is about 9 inches long. I then filled the reservoir up to the top of the stock reservoir and ran it like that.

 

I have since wheeled the p1ss out of the truck and the steering doesn't miss a beat, no more boil over, and all day wheeling is smooth and cool steering.  Glad you asked this stuff because I forgot to update the forum when I did that stuff.  


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#7 OFFLINE   891Ton

 
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Posted 22 November 2013 - 11:46 PM

Oh sorry I forgot your last question. No don't run it to a knuckle. I suppose you could, but there is no need to. Plus if you go to a high steer setup, your knuckles will have enough added stress of them. If you get a high quality tie rod or even the stock 60 tie rod, will have no problem dealing with the load. Plus it will be easier to mount it in a central location and distribute the load to the knuckles evenly.


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#8 OFFLINE   DMANbluesfreak

 
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Posted 25 November 2013 - 12:45 PM

 



I'm planning on doing this this winter since the truck is stored away for a while.  Couple questions.

 

1) Where'd you get the already tapped end plug?

 

2) I've read people need to run an auxiliary reservoir since the stock reservoir may not have enough fluid for the entire system.  Are they doing this simply because of heat?  Did you end up running one?

 

3) Would it make more sense to run it from the axle to one of the knuckles to limit the amount of stress on the tie rod (and more importantly) the tie rod ends?  I figure this is minimal in the grand scheme of things, but it never hurts to ask.

 

 

Thanks!  And awesome write-up.  I was about to pull the trigger on a PSC setup since I wasn't able to find any clear instructions on how to piece together your own.  So glad I didnt.

DMan.. Heres the scoop after trail testing this thing for a while.

 

First off I got the tapped end plug from JKWoffroad. Here is the link http://jkwoffroad.co...oadproducts.php

 

Second , yes that's right. The stock reservoir wasn't enough. I had to change a couple things. Under heavy wheeling, the fluid started getting so hot it was filling the reservoir and spilling out the top of the cap. I had fluid everywhere and I also lost a lot of steering control once it started to cavitate the steering got real tight and I couldn't turn as well as when it was cool.  I had to pull over on the trail and let it cool. So to fix this I did two things.

 

1. Got a bigger cooler. The replaced the cooler with a Ford Crown Victoria tranny cooler which is 12"x8".  Its roughly twice the size as the first one I got. I didn't think this thing was going to get so hot. But the new cooler works great. It has three loops of tubes that stick out one side of the cooler and two stick out the other. The first cooler I had only had two out one side and one out the other. (look at the photo) and you will see the difference.

 

2. I added some extra capacity to the reservoir. And as easy as pie heres how I did it.

 

IMG_20131122_232919_814_zps1369e911.jpg

 

Get a piece of radiator hose, and a couple hose clamps. Then go to a junk yard and cut off an oil fill neck from any motor that it resembles the size of your radiator hose. Stick the hose on your reservoir, then put the oil fill neck in the other end of the tube, and hose clamp everything together. Remember to take the cap for the oil fill neck. Mine is about 9 inches long. I then filled the reservoir up to the top of the stock reservoir and ran it like that.

 

I have since wheeled the p1ss out of the truck and the steering doesn't miss a beat, no more boil over, and all day wheeling is smooth and cool steering.  Glad you asked this stuff because I forgot to update the forum when I did that stuff.  

 

 

 

Thanks for the response.  I figured you'd added some capacity to the reservoir, but I wanted to make sure.  I've got a few ideas for a reservoir that I might try out, but it's good to know how much needs to be added, approximately.

As for the cooler, I have a spare cooler sitting in my garage that is about the size you mentioned, so that's also good to know.

 

Oh sorry I forgot your last question. No don't run it to a knuckle. I suppose you could, but there is no need to. Plus if you go to a high steer setup, your knuckles will have enough added stress of them. If you get a high quality tie rod or even the stock 60 tie rod, will have no problem dealing with the load. Plus it will be easier to mount it in a central location and distribute the load to the knuckles evenly.

I've been told the strongest way to do it is to actually run it to a high steer arm, since that's how the crossover is strongest (versus running a y-steering setup)... that being said, I'm sure running the ram to the tie rod will be plenty strong for anything I'm doing since you're running bigger tires and tougher terrain than I am.  I just can't stand being on a rock and having to rock the truck backward and forward to get it to turn the tires so this'll be a huge improvement.


Edited by DMANbluesfreak, 25 November 2013 - 12:49 PM.


#9 OFFLINE   FellowTraveler

 
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Posted 26 November 2013 - 05:14 AM

Great mod write up!



#10 OFFLINE   891Ton

 
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Posted 26 November 2013 - 10:21 AM

Dman the reason I say to not go to the knuckle is whenbu got to a high steer it puts a lot of strain on the knuckle. Its been known to break stock knuckles. So if u run it to the tie rod it will at least distribute the pressure. I haven't broken one yet but I can tell u that the steering was prob twice as hard once I went to high steer. Meaning twice as hard to turn the wheel. It wouldn't even be drivable off road in 4wd locked if I didn't do the ram assist. With the ram assist and low/normal steer you will have a huge increase in steering power. The high steer prob reduces it to half its potential. But its still way better than low steer with nothing. And you don't break/bend tie rods anymore. I could never do rocks without high steer. Impossible.
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#11 OFFLINE   DMANbluesfreak

 
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Posted 26 November 2013 - 11:20 AM

I guess I've read two trains of thought.  Yours where the ram connects to the tie rod, and then the other integrates (double shear between high steer arm and factory tie rod location) into the knuckle.  Surely running this in double shear will help strengthen the knuckle and then the opposite knuckle still sees the same resultant forces due to the tie rod.

 

Either way, I'm sure I'll end up going with this route (though I'll probably clamp to the tie rod so I can have future adjustability) regardless.



#12 OFFLINE   891Ton

 
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Posted 02 December 2013 - 03:04 PM

I wouldnt clamp the tie rod. It will come loose. And those tiny allen head bolts strip like crazy once they get siezed up and you try to take them off. Why would you move or adjust it? It only works right in one position. If it were ever to be on the tie rod thats the only place it would be. IMO weld everything that has to be hardcore. bolts rust, strip, come loose, break. A good weld will be there forever, and if you need to remove it its a quick cut with the cutting wheel.


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#13 OFFLINE   DMANbluesfreak

 
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Posted 03 December 2013 - 08:54 AM

The only thing I worry about welding to the tie rod is making it brittle at the weld. This now becomes an issue with confidence in my own welds. I don't need the tie rod breaking loose from the ram while driving down the highway, or worse - the tie rod splitting in two.  When I talk about a clamp, I mean one of those very hefty Tube Clamps (like this: http://www.polyperfo...amp-p-1727.html).  At least if a clamp fails, the tie rod is still connecting both knuckles - and again, I can always cut it off of the allen bolts seize. Maybe I'm being paranoid, but it just seems a bit safer to use a clamp vs. welding it to the tie rod.



#14 OFFLINE   AA1PR

 
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Posted 03 December 2013 - 04:04 PM

seems like a lot of stress on a small tie rod


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#15 OFFLINE   DMANbluesfreak

 
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Posted 29 December 2013 - 01:07 AM

So here's a wrench in the spokes... apparently GMT800s have a different steering box than the GMT400s.

 

IMG_20131223_155911_664.jpg

 

Anyone have any idea what I need to do to get this to work?  Obviously I can't just swap the front cover like on the GMT400 steering box.  Am I stuck just tapping the proper port on the side and then rebuilding the damn thing?


Edited by DMANbluesfreak, 29 December 2013 - 01:08 AM.





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