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HydroBoost Conversion - Part #'s


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#1 OFFLINE   Sparg93

 
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Posted 14 October 2012 - 09:07 AM

Power Steering Return Hose - AC Delco 36-368640
Power Steering Pressure Hose - AC Delco 36-365460
Power Steering Pressure Hose - AC Delco 36-365490
Power Steering Pump - AC Delco 36-517137
Master Cylinder - AC Delco 174-722
Hydroboost Unit - AC Delco 178-578
Variable Bypass - GM #19168825
OEM PS Cooler - 26041420 & 15655032 (gmpartsgiant)
Hydroboost Brake Pedal - #35-3632 (LMC Truck)

I highly recommend you purchase a PS cooler...otherwise there is a high probability you will overheat your PS fluid fairly easily...especially if you wheel. The GM version is three time the price of a Summit/Jegs unit, but it literally bolts into existing holes on our 1/2t rigs.

I hope this helps everyone here!

Edited by Sparg93, 10 December 2012 - 08:59 AM.

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#2 ONLINE   AA1PR

 
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Posted 14 October 2012 - 09:20 AM

not sure if this happens on all the the different years
when my power steering pump failed 2 winters ago & when it died so did my braking. all of this just moments after coming off a steep decline out of the woods
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#3 ONLINE   DonYukon

 
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Posted 14 October 2012 - 09:21 AM

can you enlighten me on exactly what hydroboost advantages are over stock? I've always heard and seen it done but i have no idea exactly how it helps? thanks
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#4 ONLINE   AA1PR

 
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Posted 14 October 2012 - 09:26 AM

I thought by taking vacuum from the power steering pump there is always a constant amount of vacuum to be had
unlike having to rely upon the engine vacuum which varies
at least thats my basic understanding of it
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2004 GMC Yukon, 4X4 SLT, 5.3L Vortec, ~ Yukon Build Thread
Trail Master 2.5" leveling keys, SkyJacker Shocks -upfront, Monroe MA830 Air shocks rear & MOOG rear coils,  EGR 1.25" Fender Flares
Putco Punch grille insert, gamut of Putco chrome accessories, & IPCW chrome/clear Crystal Eyes taillights
N-Fab light bar & Hella 700FF's,  Running on 33's BFG TA KO 

Radio Comm equipped 3.5mhz to 450 (analog& digital modes), Magellan Roadmate 1700 7" GPS & Delorme handheld

1966 Stevens M416 trailer too ~ M416 Build thread

"Now she is gone I got my Yukon"

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#5 OFFLINE   FellowTraveler

 
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Posted 16 October 2012 - 07:44 AM

Higher clamping forces are had w/hydro boost, on certain vehicles like my 99 Burb through the device controller you can calibrate brakes for tire diameter changes. A cooler and filters on both return lines are important additions to hydroboost.

I rebuild my own hydro boosters as I've had too much BS R&R w/rebuilt units from parts stores. As for the tools I searched the web and found some suppliers want to control prices for the tools keeping them BS high but thanks to the web I bought all the tools for about 10% of what those tools resellers wanted.
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#6 OFFLINE   Sparg93

 
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Posted 16 October 2012 - 09:11 PM

not sure if this happens on all the the different years
when my power steering pump failed 2 winters ago & when it died so did my braking. all of this just moments after coming off a steep decline out of the woods


I'm not sure with the GMT 800's, but with the older hydroboost units, they contained a nitrogen charge that would allow for three complete stops should the Power Steering pump dies. But yes, technically once you loose PS pressure, the hydroboost unit will no longer apply pressure to your brakes.

can you enlighten me on exactly what hydroboost advantages are over stock? I've always heard and seen it done but i have no idea exactly how it helps? thanks


Vacuum brakes on our rigs apply ~800psi at the caliper; hydroboost is ~1200psi.

Essentially, you are utilizing hydraulic pressure from the PS pump (always use either a 3/4t or 1t PS pump, the 1/2 is not correct), through the hydroboost to dramatically increase pressure at the caliper - Sunlit, did I get the basics right??

The plus's of hydroboost is dramatically increased clamping pressue which will reduce your 60-0. However, they are prone to failure (fellowtravelers comments) due to the smallest of particles ripping through the seals of the hydro unit and a bit more complex then vacuum setups. There are two companies that make filters (not OEM) for the low pressure side I've seriously considering adding to see if that would help.

However, for me, I like the unit esp b/c I'm running bigger tires and tow from time to time...but it's an expensive mod.

I can definitely add more details if you have questions!

Edited by Sparg93, 16 October 2012 - 09:13 PM.

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#7 ONLINE   AA1PR

 
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Posted 16 October 2012 - 09:28 PM

"I'm not sure with the GMT 800's, but with the older hydroboost units, they contained a nitrogen charge that would allow for three complete stops should the Power Steering pump dies. But yes, technically once you loose PS pressure, the hydroboost unit will no longer apply pressure to your brakes".

I wish I had three charges to get home that day. I relied upon my ebrake to save me, I was pushing the pedal through the floor & was sweating bullets getting down the rest of the 18" of snow covered mountain road even though it was paved road from there I was helpless
I see the advantages of hydroboost, but if you are back in the woods & say the belt breaks too, which renders the pump useless you have nothing

you guys are very knowledgable about this I have been out of the loop too long
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2004 GMC Yukon, 4X4 SLT, 5.3L Vortec, ~ Yukon Build Thread
Trail Master 2.5" leveling keys, SkyJacker Shocks -upfront, Monroe MA830 Air shocks rear & MOOG rear coils,  EGR 1.25" Fender Flares
Putco Punch grille insert, gamut of Putco chrome accessories, & IPCW chrome/clear Crystal Eyes taillights
N-Fab light bar & Hella 700FF's,  Running on 33's BFG TA KO 

Radio Comm equipped 3.5mhz to 450 (analog& digital modes), Magellan Roadmate 1700 7" GPS & Delorme handheld

1966 Stevens M416 trailer too ~ M416 Build thread

"Now she is gone I got my Yukon"

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#8 OFFLINE   Sunlitcomet

 
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Posted 16 October 2012 - 09:49 PM

hydroboosts also have a much shorter distance to travel before it hits the mc piston. which reduces pani braking response of brake application.

Sparg that is about correct.

Edited by Sunlitcomet, 16 October 2012 - 09:53 PM.

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#9 OFFLINE   Sunlitcomet

 
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Posted 16 October 2012 - 09:56 PM

i will have to look into the whole 1/2 3/4 1 ton classification of ps pumps tho. i personally have the AC Delco 36-517135 pump my self. and my hydro unit to go on is from a 96 heavy burb.
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#10 OFFLINE   Sunlitcomet

 
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Posted 16 October 2012 - 09:57 PM

Higher clamping forces are had w/hydro boost, on certain vehicles like my 99 Burb through the device controller you can calibrate brakes for tire diameter changes. A cooler and filters on both return lines are important additions to hydroboost.

I rebuild my own hydro boosters as I've had too much BS R&R w/rebuilt units from parts stores. As for the tools I searched the web and found some suppliers want to control prices for the tools keeping them BS high but thanks to the web I bought all the tools for about 10% of what those tools resellers wanted.



I beleive i foiund a good $40 kit for rebuild but i want your links to kits and tools you got at lower cost then others.
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#11 OFFLINE   FellowTraveler

 
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Posted 18 October 2012 - 05:02 AM


Higher clamping forces are had w/hydro boost, on certain vehicles like my 99 Burb through the device controller you can calibrate brakes for tire diameter changes. A cooler and filters on both return lines are important additions to hydroboost.

I rebuild my own hydro boosters as I've had too much BS R&R w/rebuilt units from parts stores. As for the tools I searched the web and found some suppliers want to control prices for the tools keeping them BS high but thanks to the web I bought all the tools for about 10% of what those tools resellers wanted.



I beleive i foiund a good $40 kit for rebuild but i want your links to kits and tools you got at lower cost then others.


The number one (1) failure with is the power piston seal leaking which rears its ugly head by leaking between the hydorboost and the master cylinder, next is dirt/sand entering through the p/s pump fill a small grain will destroy internal parts of hydroboost usually requiring the power piston replacement.

There are two types of rod mountings on hydroboost one is w/rubber grommet and an easy change the other is crimped and that is a different story I use a dremel to remove some of the crimp and then remove the rod. Why I mention the rods is because they have to be removed to service the seals behind them the crimped unit requires 3 very small re-crimps to attach rod.

There are a few individuals who actually fabricated very large accumulator to have more stopping reserve, common colors for the accumulators are gold (lowest pressure), blue (medium pressure) and silver (high pressure). A higher pump pressure is usually needed and when going this route a large cooler has to be plummed into return lines or you will quickly damage the pump impeller paddles. Other units have the accumulator inside the unit w/power piston.

I had spent many hours searching the web and factory shop manuals to get tool numbers for the correct tools for my hydroboost, they are not all the same as many would assume. As for links they were items that I had found that were being sold through various search engines and no longer exist. I had fabricated one too.

Edited by FellowTraveler, 18 October 2012 - 05:06 AM.

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#12 OFFLINE   FellowTraveler

 
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Posted 18 October 2012 - 06:51 AM

Some J-tool numbers that can be used on most HydroBoost units, I'll post picturesof booster and J tools when I find out how..

KENT MORE J-26889 accumulator removal press to compress unit then a small pick is used to remove large c-clip.
J-24551 Power piston seal installer.

Edited by FellowTraveler, 18 October 2012 - 08:30 AM.

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#13 OFFLINE   Sparg93

 
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Posted 18 October 2012 - 08:30 AM



Higher clamping forces are had w/hydro boost, on certain vehicles like my 99 Burb through the device controller you can calibrate brakes for tire diameter changes. A cooler and filters on both return lines are important additions to hydroboost.

I rebuild my own hydro boosters as I've had too much BS R&R w/rebuilt units from parts stores. As for the tools I searched the web and found some suppliers want to control prices for the tools keeping them BS high but thanks to the web I bought all the tools for about 10% of what those tools resellers wanted.



I beleive i foiund a good $40 kit for rebuild but i want your links to kits and tools you got at lower cost then others.


The number one (1) failure with is the power piston seal leaking which rears its ugly head by leaking between the hydorboost and the master cylinder, next is dirt/sand entering through the p/s pump fill a small grain will destroy internal parts of hydroboost usually requiring the power piston replacement.
.


That is where it leaked on my first one too.

i had no idea on the difference accumulator colors, very interesting.

I've heard there is a difference between the 3/4t and 1t hydroboost - can you elaborate on the differences? The same with the PS pumps, is it true the 1t generates greater pressure then the 3/4t? (i've heard these ideas mentioned a few times, but never able to confirm)
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#14 OFFLINE   FellowTraveler

 
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Posted 18 October 2012 - 01:39 PM




Higher clamping forces are had w/hydro boost, on certain vehicles like my 99 Burb through the device controller you can calibrate brakes for tire diameter changes. A cooler and filters on both return lines are important additions to hydroboost.

I rebuild my own hydro boosters as I've had too much BS R&R w/rebuilt units from parts stores. As for the tools I searched the web and found some suppliers want to control prices for the tools keeping them BS high but thanks to the web I bought all the tools for about 10% of what those tools resellers wanted.



I beleive i foiund a good $40 kit for rebuild but i want your links to kits and tools you got at lower cost then others.


The number one (1) failure with is the power piston seal leaking which rears its ugly head by leaking between the hydorboost and the master cylinder, next is dirt/sand entering through the p/s pump fill a small grain will destroy internal parts of hydroboost usually requiring the power piston replacement.
.


That is where it leaked on my first one too.

i had no idea on the difference accumulator colors, very interesting.

I've heard there is a difference between the 3/4t and 1t hydroboost - can you elaborate on the differences? The same with the PS pumps, is it true the 1t generates greater pressure then the 3/4t? (i've heard these ideas mentioned a few times, but never able to confirm)


Hydroboost units differ in spool valves (ABS & non ABS), set pressure adjustments, 4 disk, or drum/disk, accumulators lately the overall system is designed around ABS and actually uses a hydroboost unit that would be reserved for a lighter vehicle w/o ABS case in point you will find some 1 ton vehicles using a low pressure booster w/gold accumulator and using a device controller to control break calibration for tire size (OBD2 feature not found on all vehicles just on some C/K 2/3 trucks & my 1999 Burb).

Some older pumps do have higher pressure and some forums have the charts w/part numbers and pressure ratings. I use PSC's hi-pressure p/s pump exclusively.

The ultimate setup will have a proper (ABS or not) hydrobooster w/silver accumulator and spoolvalve to handle pumps to 1,800+ psi keep in mind excessive heat is generated which can destroy the pumps impeller paddles in short order so a very large cooler is needed and plumbed into return lines and not restricting low pressure return flow which could cause the brakes to self engage. Other important items are a high pressure filter (3k psi) on pressure side of system and one or two filters w/magnets on return lines. Synthetic fluid finishes off the system.

Edited by FellowTraveler, 18 October 2012 - 01:47 PM.

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#15 ONLINE   DonYukon

 
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Posted 18 October 2012 - 01:41 PM

and i just installed a new PS pump again wish i would have knew this before i shelled out the cash
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